Propagation of flexural properties from fibre to fabric
Rantasalo, Sami Petteri (2015)
Rantasalo, Sami Petteri
2015
Kuitu- ja tekstiilitekniikan koulutusohjelma
Teknisten tieteiden tiedekunta - Faculty of Engineering Sciences
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Hyväksymispäivämäärä
2015-02-04
Julkaisun pysyvä osoite on
https://urn.fi/URN:NBN:fi:tty-201412191629
https://urn.fi/URN:NBN:fi:tty-201412191629
Tiivistelmä
Good handle, drape and flexibility are valued when assessing textiles. These properties are manifestations of fabric behaviour under low stress. Yarn and fabric properties are influenced by the constitutive fibre properties. Knowing these interrelations would allow making fibres with properties known to produce wanted results in yarns or fabrics. The main object of this thesis is to examine the interrelations of fibres’ and fabrics’ flexibility influencing properties.
A selection of cellulose-based fibres and fabrics were chosen for characterization. A novel fibre characterization platform was used to measure individual fibre flexibility. Fabrics were characterized using Kawabata Evaluation System, implementations of Cusick’s drape test and Shirley stiffness tester. A fabric extraction method
using a funnel nozzle (modified ring method) was built and used to evaluate fabric handle. Secondary objective was to also evaluate these assessment methods and their suitability for fabric evaluation.
The results showed the positive relation of fibre modulus and flexibility. Fibre properties also influence the fabric properties, although the influence is only to an extent. The mechanics of a fabric under stress depends on the fabric type and structure. These mechanics can be heavily influenced with macro level structural changes like texturing in non-woven fabrics.
Fibre characterization platform fulfilled expectations but needs more development. The extraction method results, stress-deviation-curves, were not used fully in this thesis and require more research. The maximum extraction force values calculated from the curves duly did not correlate well with the other measurements.
Rest of the fabric characterization methods gave comparable results and showed good interrelations (between 58-90 %). KES and the stiffness tester are designed for specific fabrics, but were capable to measure other fabric types as well. Biggest issues with KES are the high price and result reproducibility. Corresponding properties can be measured with less expensive, separate appliances.
A selection of cellulose-based fibres and fabrics were chosen for characterization. A novel fibre characterization platform was used to measure individual fibre flexibility. Fabrics were characterized using Kawabata Evaluation System, implementations of Cusick’s drape test and Shirley stiffness tester. A fabric extraction method
using a funnel nozzle (modified ring method) was built and used to evaluate fabric handle. Secondary objective was to also evaluate these assessment methods and their suitability for fabric evaluation.
The results showed the positive relation of fibre modulus and flexibility. Fibre properties also influence the fabric properties, although the influence is only to an extent. The mechanics of a fabric under stress depends on the fabric type and structure. These mechanics can be heavily influenced with macro level structural changes like texturing in non-woven fabrics.
Fibre characterization platform fulfilled expectations but needs more development. The extraction method results, stress-deviation-curves, were not used fully in this thesis and require more research. The maximum extraction force values calculated from the curves duly did not correlate well with the other measurements.
Rest of the fabric characterization methods gave comparable results and showed good interrelations (between 58-90 %). KES and the stiffness tester are designed for specific fabrics, but were capable to measure other fabric types as well. Biggest issues with KES are the high price and result reproducibility. Corresponding properties can be measured with less expensive, separate appliances.